Marfa Trip 2022 - The Start of The Travel Bug

Introduction

TLDR: Marfa is an amazingly artistic place in the middle of nowhere, Texas, with hidden gems. Beware of bugs, children, and annoying art enthusiasts.

In May of 2022, I began my travels with a long weekend trip to Marfa, TX. It was a small bucket list item, as I had heard of the El Cosmico RV/Tent experience and also wanted to explore Big Bend. It was a nice getaway that I took with my mom in an area of Texas that we hadn't explored yet. After all, I had lived in Texas my whole life, so it was time to see more of it! I had been to all the major cities and in between, and I had been to West Texas before, but this was a new area for me.

I wanted to start recounting my travel experiences from the start, as both inspiration to begin your own travels, or to give you ideas for your own trips. It was on this trip that I started to become more determined to travel more and take the time to knock off the things I wanted to do while I could. So, what better way to do that than by starting from the beginning? Well, the beginning in recent years. I've done some extensive travel in my lifetime thus far. 

Planning the Trip

When it came to planning the trip, I already knew some places I wanted to see. I saw via social media that I had heard of a few places to stay that I had saved on my list of places to go. TikTok and Instagram are some of the biggest resources I use to help find places to stay and things to do, as their personal stories and reviews are usually reliable. However, I am a big advocate for doing your own research and looking for multiple sources, especially when it comes to planning a trip. Also, leave room for the unexpected and surprising. I'll pull up Google Maps and browse local restaurants, museums, and shops to see what I might want to visit. This also helps when planning to visit certain areas, so there isn't too much back and forth.

One of the biggest tools I used to plan trips includes using a Google spreadsheet to keep all things organized. This includes all information regarding transportation, accommodation, activities, and BUDGET. When planning my budget, I plan everything. I always make sure to include a place to eat for breakfast, dinner, and snacks, even if I don't go to them. At the end of the day, you want to overspend. The use of spreadsheets is super underrated. Make your own that you feel works with your style. Again, leave room for a free day or space for the unexpected. You want to balance under-planning and over-planning.

For my friends who don't like to have a plan, have a budget! It's important to get in the habit of staying organized when traveling, no matter how much you like to plan. Have a place that has all your travel and accommodation info/addresses at the very least. I also recommend keeping a folder in a drive online that is accessible anywhere, that holds a digital copy of your spreadsheet, travel documents, and any important ticket and accommodation PDFs. Bonus for daily planning, like I do, as well as a budget tracker of some kind. It will be a saving grace, I promise you!

IMPORTANT

Share your travel plans with someone!

I always share my travel spreadsheet with all my addresses, tour plans, and flight info with my mom. You need to have someone who can come look for you. Especially as a woman solo traveler, this is a must! It also helps those close to you to check in when you forget.

I have a story about this when I got sick traveling from Vietnam to Thailand. My parents were worried when I didn't check in with them, and they checked my "Find My iPhone" location and saw I was where I needed to be. They relaxed a bit, but still tried constantly to get me to pick up the phone. Eventually, I woke up to check in. Sorry, Mom & Dad! More about that trip later.

Departure Day

My mom and I had originally planned on making the 10-hour drive out to Marfa, but I was persuaded to fly in to El Paso and rent a car, as my mom wasn't sure she was going to make the drive. We ran into some major issues off the bat, as it happened to be one of the few days that Dallas, TX decided to have a bit of stormy/windy weather. We had delay after delay, then a cancellation, and I quickly got frustrated as I wanted to drive in the first place. It got to the point where I was going to give up and drive if we didn't catch the next flight. I was especially upset, as I wanted to drive in the first place, and we would have been there already. Luckily, we got the next flight.

I was anxious the entire time, as it was my first travel after the pandemic, and it was the first time I was left to plan a trip; it was something I wanted to do. Everything before that had been family-based or was a trip I didn't get a say in. I did a European trip when I graduated high school that was a group trip, and while it was "my" trip, it was still based on someone else's itinerary. My mom let me plan and book everything, and she reimbursed me. So, I was super frustrated when we couldn't even leave the airport.

Eventually, we got to El Paso, got in our rental car, and began our 3-4 hour drive to Maarthon. Yes, Texas is just that big. We landed at about 5 pm and ended up getting into Marathon for our accommodation at about 11 pm. Mind you, this included getting off the plane, getting our rental car, and stopping at a Target/ Starbucks for some provisions, as we'd be camping, and wanted stuff to snack on in case there wasn't anything too close to our accommodations. 

We started in El Paso traffic that wasn't too fun, but not as bad as some of the traffic that we get back in Dallas. I instantly tried to bring a bad start better by jamming to music while navigating from the passenger seat. Mom didn't want me to drive, even though I offered, so I did my best to make up for being a sourpuss earlier. We didn't stop until we turned off I-10 in Van Horn to get on US-90, which we'd stay on for the remainder of the drive. It was starting to get dark, so it was perfect timing before it got too late to stop at a gas station in the middle of nowhere, Texas.

I'll never forget driving up that two-lane road in the dark, and with only light coming from our headlights, seeing jack rabbits and massive deer grazing off the side of the road. They were used to the cars, so they never got too close, and luckily, never tried crossing the road. But it was a little intimidating since we were in a rental car. Leaning on the side of caution, we went slower than needed, as we also resolved to get there when we were meant to.

I had booked only one night in Marathon at Eve's Bed and Breakfast, as I had seen that place on social media, and it looked super cute. I was sad I didn't get to spend more time there or explore the city very much. But this is why I say to leave room for the unexpected and surprising when you're planning a trip. You live and you learn.

Eve's was a beautiful bed and breakfast that had an amazing shower that was perfect after such a long travel day. The garden was breathtaking, and I wish I could have one like it! The entire place was practically customized from the ground up by the owners, and they've done such an amazing job. It's a beautiful place, which I think you should at least visit for the photo ops. I don't have nearly enough pictures to do this place justice, but I'll include a small gallery, as well as a link to their website, in case you'd like to check them out!

Eve's Bed & Breakfast

The Biggest Day

Our first day, we woke up at Eve's to take part in the complimentary breakfast and prepare for the day ahead. We had planned on going out to Big Bend and doing the scenic drive route with a bit of hiking before continuing to Marfa for the remainder of our trip. We took our time prepping and walking every inch of Eve's since it was so beautiful, and we wanted to at least enjoy it a bit more before leaving.

We then loaded up the car and began the drive out to Big Bend National Park. We first drove to Terlingua to stop at a gas station to load up and prepare for the day of driving. We opted to do the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive ending at Castolon Store & Ranger's Station before driving back. We hit a few trails on the drive, but made sure to stop and take pictures, and just enjoy the scenery.

I loved hiking the shorter trails and taking in the quiet. It wasn't too hot, especially for Texas, but it was May, so the desert was naturally warm. Make sure to wear sunscreen and hydrate ALWAYS when traveling, but especially when hiking in the desert. My mom struggled a bit with all the rocks, but we both did fine and felt good afterward, since there wasn't too much elevation. However, Texas is not for the weak.

There are countless animals that are dangerous, and many people don't often think about it, even where I live. I've been on walks and seen bobcats, coyotes, snakes, and various bugs. Big Bend also has its share of warnings and things to look out for. Javelinas and rattlesnakes to begin with. We did not have any run-ins with these. Though what I want to caution about, especially for those who aren't used to seeing them, are the various bug friends we see often, and we saw especially while staying in West Texas.

While hiking our first trail, we began to notice a loud buzzing sound that drowned out the typical cicada noise we hear. We soon realized that it was coming from a tree, which, by the sound of the type of buzz and how loud/ numerous it sounded, was bees. Whether hornets, wasps, or honeybees, we didn't care. We immediately turned around when we felt we were a little too close for comfort. 

We also saw plenty of scorpions, including one in the bathroom at the ranger's station. Again, be cautious, and make sure to check what kinds of animals are around, no matter where you're going. But especially if you're doing outdoor activities. Know what to look for. We saw a handful of spider holes, which, for those who don't know, typically mean there are tarantulas around. We didn't see any big ones, but we saw our fair share of little spiders. We also saw plenty of scorpions, ants, and wasp holes (they nest in the ground in the desert). As well as a few snake trails and shedded skins. 

Overall, it was fun to explore the park a bit, and we saw plenty. It's a wonderful place to visit. I just wanted to caution those who aren't used to the Texas landscape to understand what to look for on a minimal level. Hiking doesn't have to be the extreme sport it is. You can enjoy it on a small level, like I do, but you still need to be prepared.

The park entry fee is $30 for those who are planning to go out! I'll include a link to Big Bend's website. They have plenty of resources, info, etc. If you'd like to camp or stay closer, there are some cool places to check out. My mom and I just wanted to do the day trip out, since we weren't staying too long. Make sure to bring snacks, water, sunscreen, and comfy shoes to walk in!

Big Bend National Park

Staying at El Cosmico

After we spent most of the day out in Big Bend National Park, we made our way through Alpine and even walked around downtown a bit. We ended up crashing a gallery exhibition, but were warmly welcomed, and we purchased some postcards from the local artists. (No pics, but it was a cute place.) Then we drive to Marfa to check into our new accommodations for the next couple of nights.

We stayed at the El Cosmico campsite in one of their redone Airstream RVs. It was absolutely one of the best parts of the trip. It was perfect for two, maybe three people. I wanted to try a yurt or tent, but my mom was like... no. Now, I think I'd be able to get her to do it, but we were more into the glamping experience. At the time, they had various tents you could stay in, but also a general area you could set up your own tent or campsite in. However, they have since closed down and are preparing some other project. I'm a little disappointed in the direction they're taking, as I really wish I could go back, but I look forward to seeing what they do. I only hope it helps the artist community there, as well as the locals. For now, I recount the experience we had when we stayed there a couple of years ago.

We had our own shower outside, yes, outside, of the RV in the back. My only issue, and it wasn't anything they could do, was that a mother was letting her kids run around this area near our trailer. Her son, specifically, started looking into our shower while I was prepping it for use. Thankfully, she saw this and took her kids away, but it still made me uncomfortable! I've used public baths, lockerooms, etc, but PLEASE watch your kids. I did not appreciate it. Especially in camping areas where people are sharing space. Those kinds of private areas should be a little more respected. I'm understanding of kids to a point.

Anyways... rant over.

It was a very cool experience, children aside. We got to see so many stars at night, since we were in rural Texas. Even the shower was cool once you got used to it being outside, and there were no kids around to peek in. We ended up getting the margarita basket to make some with our impromptu dinner and snacks while we watched Netflix on the patio and waited for the stars. We then called it a night and went to sleep. Overall, it was a comfy stay that was perfect for a weekend getaway trip. I really can't recommend this type of experience enough.

They had a food truck on-site for breakfast that was also pretty yummy, as we ate there in the morning. The main house had a store and a sitting area with a strong wifi signal. Now and then, we'd walk over to download and send a text. They also had a few communal shower/bathroom areas near the front and middle of the property for those who were staying in tents/public campsite areas.

Another thing I want to mention, as when I went back to Marfa, I stopped by their store just for it, is the bath products they featured. They had rosemary and apple cider vinegar hair rinse that smelled amazing, and was perfect for a quick wash. I have a bottle to this day that I use sparingly. Their soap is also something I went back and grabbed my second time around, so I wanted to include a link to their shop. The soaps feel so nice on the skin, and smell super nice. The rinse, however, was an El Cosmico-specific product that you could only get if you stayed there. If you'd like it, I recommend contacting them directly or making your own!

El Cosmico

Marfa Soap

Unforgettable Moments

On our first full day in Marfa, I had booked a selection tour with Chinati Foundation. I wanted to do a full guided tour, but they were completely booked. Before going on this trip, I had seen that the RM of BTS had visited the foundation and recommended it. As an army, and someone who usually visits artistic things when I travel, this was at the top of my to-do list. We went out a little after breakfast and walked the outside part before meeting our tour guide for the tour.

This was a super cool place, and I recommend it for those who are more into modern art. Also, read up on Donald Judd and the resident artists that are featured, as they cycle some of them out. Make sure to bring water, snacks if you need them, and wear comfy clothing that is also weather-appropriate, as you'll be doing a lot of walking.

Now, I'm someone who reads the pamphlets, as my mom actually got pictures of me doing so while at the various exhibitions. I enjoyed all the pieces and all my tour guide had to say during the tour. However, there were "art enthusiasts" who didn't quite appreciate, and in fact were annoyed with, the type of art we saw. I was annoyed that they complained about a tour they PAID for, and then continued to talk about their knowledge in art while ignoring the pieces right in front of them. My guide was great and took it all in stride. She was very knowledgeable, and I appreciated her taking it all in stride and still making the most of it.

We explored the downtown area after our tour, and then hit up Ballroom Marfa for our next artsy spot. As a musician, it was amazing to see the art influenced by sounds and music, and to get to go around and experience such an immersive exhibition. I was sad my second time in Marfa, I couldn't revisit, but the first time definitely was worth the stop! It is a smaller exhibition, so it doesn't take long to see it all.

We then stopped at Para Llevar for dinner and snacks before calling it a day after lots of walking and looking at art. We split a pizza, which we then took to go. They have all kinds of snacks and foods, as it's the cutest little bodega in the middle of nowhere. We turned in earlier than expected, but it was a long day. We had one more to do, and all we needed!

The following day was much more... relaxed. We got breakfast in town before we piled into the car to drive out to Valentine for the Prada Store. No, it's not an actual store, but an art installation. I have to admit, I recommend it even if you're just passing through. It's a super cool stop to add to any road trip.

The rest of our trip was entirely impromptu. We explored the back roads, walked around town, and ended our day at the Beer Garden. There are a lot more restaurants and coffee shops now, but being a Sunday in a small town, there weren't a lot of options. We spent our last full day meandering about. Best way to describe it. We continued with a movie night after packing for the following day, as we'd catch an afternoon flight back to Dallas, after driving back to El Paso.

Chinati Foundation

Ballroom Marfa

Conclusion

Marfa was 100% worth the trip. I highly recommend that, if you have the chance, you spend at least a day exploring the far west. Even if it's as simple as adding it as a detour on a road trip, try some of the local restaurants, walk downtown Marfa, and hit up the Prada store in Valentine. If you have time, check in and see all that this artsy oasis has to offer. 

In terms of myself, this trip set up a lot of how I travel and plan to this day. Again, I touched on leaving free time and room for the surprising/ unexpected. You can always come back, I know, it sounds counterproductive. But, honestly, you can never see too much of a place, and you surely won't get to do everything. You'll leave, and you'll have your doubts and regrets. As someone who has since done my fair share of travel, this rings true no matter where you go.

This trip also boosted my confidence in terms of planning, navigation, and responsibility. I would further test this later that year when I took my first solo trip to Santa Fe, but this was the start of my wanting to travel even more than before. I had planned a trip, and even with hiccups, it was great! It wasn't too extensive and tiring, and it also didn't leave us financially devastated. Well, me. My mother was doing most of the heavy work in terms of swiping a card, but I knew that I was capable of paying for my fair share, even if I didn't have to. That was equally as important to me. I could've done it alone, and I sure would in the future.